Ancient Ireland

Monday was a spectacular day, weather-wise and a wonderful day of seeing ancient sites. We started at Brú na Bóinne, where we toured the ancient sites of Knowth and Newgrange. These passage tombs are aligned with the sun at specific times of the year, and are about 5,000 years old. Together the site has over 350 carved stones, making it the largest collection of megalithic art in Western Europe. While nobody knows exactly what the purpose of these monuments was, it's clear they were hugely important and symbolic. At Newgrange, the rising sun shines into the interior chambers of the tomb on the winter solstice, while the sunset makes a shadow and shines into the center of the largest tomb at Knowth on the summer solstice. Carvings on many kerbstones at both sites seem to be related to phases of the moon, sun, and other natural phenomena. At Knowth, many smaller tombs surround the large one - some built before it (or maybe during construction!). These smaller tombs have openings that face the large tomb. Note, these are called "tombs" because human remains - some cremated, some not - were found inside. It's not known if there were other purposes or uses of the site, but to me, at least, it seems likely. And later people used the large tombs as fortifiable hilltop residences, even as their value in preserving bones & ashes seemed to wane. In my opinion, no visitor to Ireland should miss this amazing place. I've been several times, and always learn something new. Truly remarkable.

After Newgrange, we drove to the Hill of Tara, another site of ancient ritual and significant. There, perhaps the most enjoyable thing was walking in the sunshine and meeting people and their dogs. Gabriela is a dog trainer by profession, and a natural with the beautiful, happy dogs - and their owners - we met along the way. The dogs clearly know they've found someone who loves them, and the owners are pleased to share their canine companions with enthusiastic Americans who will love the dogs, throw balls, and compliment the owners. Everyone mentioned how lucky we were with the sunny day, and gave us advice on other places to explore. One lovely pair sent us off to a holy well nearby, where we imagined ancient pilgrims stopping to refresh themselves before proceeding up to rituals or ceremonies honoring the ancient kings... the whole place is incredibly evocative, with 360 degree views of the gorgeous greeeeeeeeeen countryside. Photos below of today's great sites.

Above left, the entrance to Newgrange passage tomb. Above right and lower left, some of the tombs at Knowth. Lower right, the countryside.

Here, left, me on the top of the largest tomb at Knowth.

Below, the Holy Well on the way up to the Hill of Tara. I could imagine thirsty pilgrims here...

This is an unrestored small tomb at Knowth. In the background, note the standing circle of wooden posts - when the site. was excavated, the holes were found, but of course the trees originally there were long gone. It is not known if this structure was contemporaneous to the site... or not!

Below, a kerbstone from Knowth's largest tomb. There are hundreds of similarly carved kerbstones at Knowth & Newgrange! Simply amazing.